Why Copper River salmon makes a splash in the Pacific Northwest

In the Pacific Northwest, the concept of terroir is commonly used to describe how environmental conditions shape the character of wine. The same principle is increasingly applied to another popular staple: Copper River salmon, which has earned a reputation as one of the finest and most sought-after fish available, prized for the unique conditions in which it is harvested.

Tim Ferleman, head seafood buyer at Anthony’s Seafood, is an avid fisherman and former chef. He’s well-versed in what goes into serving the highest-quality catch for Anthony’s customers across the region.

In early May, when the planes depart Southern Alaska with the first runs of Copper River salmon, they always land in Seattle with plenty of fanfare, but is it warranted? We talked to Ferleman to find out. 

Forty years ago, Copper River salmon had nowhere near the status it enjoys today, but one man, Jon Rowley, predicted a change of tactic could lead to a boon for those fishermen.

“Back in the day, most of these fish went to Japan,” Ferleman said. “Then it started to really become popular here in the States. They did a really amazing job of marketing, because there's a lot of other great fish out there that don't get this kind of publicity. But that being said, it is very good eating.”

Today, timing of the salmon runs play a huge role in drumming up demand for the fish. 

For the most part, wild-caught salmon disappears from menus by the fall, although some open ocean, troll-caught salmon do come in during the winter. “The problem anymore is that most of these processors don't want to keep their plant open and operating for so few fish, right?” Ferleman said. “So that's becoming more and more difficult, but we buy them.”

This means when May comes around, people are clamoring for Copper River salmon. But is the season really as short as it’s played up to be? Yes and no. A strong sockeye run can get up and going in late spring and push on until mid-July. King salmon make their splash in June and July, and then coho salmon start to come through in August and can sometimes last until October.

Knowing how many salmon are able to reach the spawning grounds helps fish and game officials manage future populations of salmon. These fluctuations inform restrictions, which then affect what’s available for consumers. “They'll only allow them to fish for like 12 hours and then they shut the fishery down and count and assess their escapement goals. Which is the right thing to do,” Ferleman said. “But what happens in the restaurants is you try to do an ad to let everyone know Copper River salmon is coming, and then you know, you can run out of fish.”

That fresh, never-frozen taste comes from the diligence of the fishermen while on the water. “It's not like a boat goes out for four or five days fishing before coming back to port,” he said. “A lot of it has to do with the handling. So they catch them, bleed them, ice them, and dress them on board immediately. Some will get out that night on a freighter and be here in the morning.”  


All of this plays a part in salmon’s price per pound, but the question “is it worth it” really boils down to personal preference. For most the answer is yes, and here’s why. 

Before the sockeye and king salmon hit the fresh water of the Copper River, each fish is primed for the difficult journey that lies between them and their spawning grounds. Tumultuous rapids and glacial silt make navigating these waters incredibly difficult, so their bodies bulk up with fat, giving them a mouth-watering flavor and that “wagyu of seafood” nickname.

“They migrate all over different parts of the ocean,” Ferleman said.
”A lot of them feed on herring, while others might be feeding on anchovies. They're all just a different makeup, different flesh, different flavor profiles, and so that's part of the thing that makes wild salmon so fun.”